Apo Whang-Od, The Last Mambabatok of Kalinga

High in the mountains of Kalinga, amidst lush rice terraces and cool mountain air, lives a legend — Apo Whang-Od, the Philippines’ oldest and most revered traditional tattoo artist. Known as the last mambabatok, she has become an icon of indigenous art, heritage, and resilience. Her simple home in the village of Buscalan has become a sacred destination for those who seek not only ink on their skin but a deeper connection to Filipino culture and identity.

🌸 Who is Apo Whang-Od?

Whang-Od Oggay, affectionately called “Apo Whang-Od,” was born around 1917 in Buscalan, Tinglayan, Kalinga. She began tattooing at the age of 15, following the ancient practice of batok — a traditional hand-tapped tattooing method using soot, water, and thorn. For centuries, tattoos in Kalinga symbolized bravery, beauty, and social status. Warriors received tattoos for their victories in battle, while women wore intricate patterns to mark milestones and identity.

Though times have changed, Apo Whang-Od continues her art, keeping the batok tradition alive for new generations. Today, her apprentices — particularly her grandnieces — have learned the art, ensuring that Kalinga tattooing will never fade away.

📍 Where is Buscalan Village?

Buscalan Village is located in the municipality of Tinglayan, in the province of Kalinga, northern Philippines. The remote mountain village sits about 15 kilometers from Tinglayan town proper and is accessible only by a short but steep trek. Despite its isolation, Buscalan has become one of the most visited cultural sites in the Cordilleras — thanks to Apo Whang-Od’s artistry and the hospitality of the Butbut tribe.

🚗 How to Get to Buscalan

• From Manila: Take a bus bound for Bontoc or Tabuk (via Victory Liner or Coda Lines). Travel time: 10–12 hours.
• From Bontoc, ride a jeepney to Bugnay or Buscalan Jump-off (1–2 hours).
• Register at the Tourism Office and hire a local guide — required for all visitors.
• From the jump-off point, it’s a 30–45 minute trek uphill to Buscalan Village.

Our Actual Itinerary

Traveling from Manila to Buscalan, Kalinga, is literally a pain in the ass because it's a 12-hour land journey, including a few stops over by the highway. ETD from Manila was at 9:40 PM. ETA in Bontoc, Mountain Province was around 6:30 AM. ETA at the jump-off or Parking Area in Buscalan was 8:40 AM.

After getting out of the van, I felt a rewarding ambiance - a very cool and relaxing ambiance. The next part was an hour-long assault trek to the Butbut Tribe in Tinglayan. No worries about the hiking part. Pathways to the village were already concrete. While on the trail, I saw the surroundings appear like a massive painting in the background because of the mountains, covered with green and colorful ornamental plants.

We reached the village around 9:30 AM. Similar to what I mentioned earlier, the weather is cool, plus the people are welcoming. We proceeded to a local house offering a "homestay." To welcome us, they offered a coffee made from roasted rice. Rested for almost an hour and had a walk in the village. The cute animals, such as pigs and chickens, are scattered everywhere and live like locals.

Grace Palicas and Ilyang Wigan

Grace Palicas, Whang Od's grandniece.

Ilyang Wigan, a bloodline successor.

We waited with the other event participants until 4 PM to get at least Whang Od's signature (the 3 dots), and they could have it. Since I already have a tattoo from Whang Od with the signature, I tried waiting for Grace or Ilyang; however, I failed. Then, I returned to the homestay where I met "May-A," a 13-year-old girl and one of the youngest mambabatoks in the tribe. I showed her the arrangement of my designs and let her do it. Since it was already dark, we could not finish the entire design. Had our dinner and slept.

My body automatically wakes up at around 3 in the morning, even without setting an alarm; even though I was tired because of our travel to Kalinga, I could not go back to sleep. Instead, I turned on my iPod, listened to Linkin Park songs, and checked my photos while the others still slept. When a beam of light passed through space and appeared on the wall, I grabbed my camera, stood up, and went out of the house to check the cold-foggy surroundings.

As expected, Buscalan, Kalinga, has a fantastic ambiance during the day and evening. When I opened the door, I was wearing a sando; I easily felt the fresh, calm wind, and then proceeded to the rice field area to see the village surrounded by fog. Other tourists were also unable to capture that moment.

Traditionally, a tattoo is a sign of strength, power, wealth, and beauty. In Buscalan, Kalinga, Batok already existed a thousand years ago, earned by the male warriors and headhunters after a victorious battle or protecting their village against enemies. At the same time, Batok for women means beauty and wealth. Its ink is composed of charcoal and water, hand-tapped into the skin using a pair of sticks with a thorn of a calamansi or pomelo tree at the end.

A photo of May-a after our tattoo session.

I was the last one to have a tattoo. So, after the session, I had my breakfast with the others. Packed our things and descended. Since my tattoos were still fresh, it hurt every time my bag's shoulder strap hit them, but I managed. The photo above was taken at the jump-off, proof that Tinglayan, Buscalan, and Kalinga are MUST-visit places! I will definitely be back here. Next was another 12-hour trip back to Manila.

Apo Whang Od Tattoo Meaning

The tattoo on top is the Serpent Eagle for guidance, or someone is watching over us. The Sun or circle in the middle is for success and prosperity. And a Scorpion for Courage. Also, my Chinese Zodiac sign. My interpretation: "My original plan was to have an image similar to an arrow pointing upwards (like the serpent eagle) that symbolizes moving up or aiming for the highest. Circle for prosperity and success. Six triangles (with dots inside) on top of the circle are for me and my 5 siblings. And a Scorpion. Also, my personality is like a scorpion; I am very calm and silent but poisonous, hahahaha. cheret lang! The tattoo's position: Why is it on my upper right back? I want a tattoo placed on my back, which can only be seen if I wear a sando or topless. I am left-handed and want the tattoo on the opposite side, the upper right back side. Using my left hand, I need to touch or reach the tattoo, meaning I want the moving attitude, success, prosperity, and courage to be reachable, whatever happens.

🌀 The Tattoo Experience

Getting tattooed by Apo Whang-Od is not merely a tourist activity — it’s a cultural encounter. Visitors choose from traditional Kalinga designs that symbolize nature, strength, or protection. Using a bamboo stick, thorn, and soot-based ink, Apo Whang-Od rhythmically taps the design into the skin. Each tap connects the visitor to a centuries-old tradition passed down through generations.

Today, many visitors also receive tattoos from her apprentices, like Grace and Elyang, who continue to learn and preserve the art. After your tattoo session, it’s customary to thank Apo Whang-Od personally — often with a smile, handshake, or a simple “Agyamanak” (thank you in Kalinga).

🕒 Best Time to Visit

The best months to visit Buscalan are from November to May, when the weather is cooler and the trails are dry. Avoid visiting during the rainy season (June–October), as the roads and mountain paths can become muddy and slippery.

🏡 Where to Stay

Several local homestays in Buscalan accommodate tourists. Staying overnight allows visitors to enjoy Kalinga hospitality, taste local coffee, and witness village life up close.

• Buscalan Homestay – managed by locals, cozy mountain setting
• Whang-Od Homestay – offers direct access to the tattoo area
• To find hotels near Kalinga and Bontoc, visit the link in the Related Posts.

☕ What to Expect in Buscalan

• Electricity and mobile signal are limited — bring power banks and offline maps.
• Respect local customs; avoid loud behavior and wear modest clothing.
• Bring cash; there are no ATMs in the village.
• Don’t just go for a tattoo — learn from the community and their stories.
• Try their famous Kalinga Coffee, freshly brewed by locals.

🌄 Closing Thoughts

Apo Whang-Od is more than just a tattoo artist — she is a living bridge between the Philippines’ past and present. Her artistry and wisdom continue to inspire not only Filipinos but people from around the world who visit Buscalan to experience her legacy. Every tattoo she creates is more than a design; it’s a story — a timeless mark of courage, beauty, and identity etched in the soul of the mountains.

As someone who has visited all 82 provinces in the Philippines, I’ve created a complete guide to help you explore each one. Check out my Philippines 82 Provinces Travel Guide here.